What you should know about the auspicious dragonfish?
The dragon, long-associated with longevity, power and luck, is a much-revered icon in Chinese culture. Because the dragonfish (Asian Arowana) supposedly resembles the majestic mythical beast, it is an auspicious symbol to the Chinese. It has become a popular aquarium pet around Southeast Asia.
Believed to bring prosperity and wealth, this freshwater fish is especially well liked by businessmen and entrepreneurs. Many fish lovers also admire the fish for its whiskers because they resemble dragon’s horns—a sign of blessing. Then there are others who keep it to ward off evil and bring good luck to the home.
Super Red Arowana
Native to Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, and Myanmar, dragonfish come in various strains and are available predominantly in three color: red, gold, and green.
Super Red Arowana
Red ones, like Super Red Arowana, are the most expensive. And because of this, some sellers fake the red hue by using hormone treatments on their fish to hood wink clueless buyers.
One way to prevent being cheated is to get your fish from a CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Flora and Fauna) registered farm, and check that the farm has a reputable sales record.
How To Raise A Dragonfish
Arowana are not hard to rear, but to ensure healthy growth and longevity, the owner should take care of the fish’s feeding habits and living environment. Here are a few tips for first-time owners.
Aquarium Tank: There should be ample space in the tank for this large-breed fish so that its growth will not be stunted. Take all the necessary measurements of the fish and the tank, to make sure you use an appropriately sized one. The only things needed in the tank are equipment for aeration and filtration; any other décor will pose the risk of damage to the fish during feeding.
Solo Creature: Aggressive by nature, the dragonfish gets along best with itself; it’s not advisable to put other fishes in the tank to “keep it company.”
Water Condition: Extremely sensitive to chlorinated water, the fish should be put into tap water that has been aged for at least a day. You can change the water weekly—but not the whole tank in one go. This is to avoid upsetting the fish (a third at a time is advised). There should also be no drastic changes in pH level or water temperature as it can endanger the fish.
Diet: Insects (live cockroaches, worms, and grasshoppers), small fishes (guppies and mollies) and frogs count as part of a dragonfish’s diet. Be very sure not to feed your fish insects that may have been in contact with pesticides or insecticides! While the feeding of adult fish should be kept to once daily, young ones can be fed up to two or three times a day.
Monday, April 13, 2009
fEed yOuR fiSh
Feed your fish the right fish food for the optimal health?
Feeding your fish with the right types of fish food will help them flourish in their captive environment. Preferably, the food should be identical to those found in the fishes’ natural habitat. As the fish feed on a variety of foods in their native habitat, this is what you should try to provide.
Different types of fish food, prepared in various forms, are commercially available. They are mostly packed with minerals and nutrients that are necessary to your fishes’ health, appearance, and longevity.
Each species of fish has unique food and feeding requirements. For instance, goldfish have different dietary requirements from tropical fish. Even different species of goldfish like different types of foods. And like humans, fish can be categorized into carnivores and herbivores as well.
If you have a community aquarium, it’s best to make up a meal containing small amounts of different foods for each species.
Four Basic Types Of Fish Food
Flakes Fish Food: These are the most commercially available fish food. Fish flakes are manufactured in various compositions to suit the requirements of different fish. They can help to enhance the color of the fish, promote breeding or provide special nutrients to juvenile or ailing fish, and are the best form of food for small fish and picky eaters.
Fish flakes float for a while before becoming soft and saturated, and sinking slowly downwards to the bottom. Thus, they are suitable for surface, mid-water and bottom feeders.
Pellets and Tablets Fish Food: Pellets remain afloat longer than flakes and are suitable for surface feeders. Tablets can be stuck on t he aquarium wall at any desired level, making it possible to cater to the special needs of various species in the aquarium.
Live or Fresh Fish Food: Live fish food is a treat for your fish. Some species of fish appreciate chasing live food like worms, insect larvae, water fleas, and brine shrimp. These foods harvested a good source of nutrition.
However, adding these tasty delights to your aquarium poses the risk of introducing disease-carrying bacteria as well. It’s crucial to remove dead specimens and rinse live and fresh foods under clean running water to remove dirt. Always scoop out the uneaten portions as they will eventually die and pollute the water.
* Brine shrimp lives in salt water and cannot survive in fresh water. Thus, they have to be eaten fast, or they will die and contaminate the water.
* Worm category includes bloodworms, tubifex, earthworms, and several others. Worms, especially the tubifex, can carry diseases. Earthworms are great for bigger-sized fish.
Frozen and Freeze-dried Fish Food: Most live fish food is available in frozen or freeze-dried forms. These types of food are more convenient and safer to use than live food – they provide the same nutrients as live specimens and are disease-free.
Fish do not enjoy eating freeze-dried foods as much as live, frozen natural foods. Give them time to get used to them.
Feeding your fish with the right types of fish food will help them flourish in their captive environment. Preferably, the food should be identical to those found in the fishes’ natural habitat. As the fish feed on a variety of foods in their native habitat, this is what you should try to provide.
Different types of fish food, prepared in various forms, are commercially available. They are mostly packed with minerals and nutrients that are necessary to your fishes’ health, appearance, and longevity.
Each species of fish has unique food and feeding requirements. For instance, goldfish have different dietary requirements from tropical fish. Even different species of goldfish like different types of foods. And like humans, fish can be categorized into carnivores and herbivores as well.
If you have a community aquarium, it’s best to make up a meal containing small amounts of different foods for each species.
Four Basic Types Of Fish Food
Flakes Fish Food: These are the most commercially available fish food. Fish flakes are manufactured in various compositions to suit the requirements of different fish. They can help to enhance the color of the fish, promote breeding or provide special nutrients to juvenile or ailing fish, and are the best form of food for small fish and picky eaters.
Fish flakes float for a while before becoming soft and saturated, and sinking slowly downwards to the bottom. Thus, they are suitable for surface, mid-water and bottom feeders.
Pellets and Tablets Fish Food: Pellets remain afloat longer than flakes and are suitable for surface feeders. Tablets can be stuck on t he aquarium wall at any desired level, making it possible to cater to the special needs of various species in the aquarium.
Live or Fresh Fish Food: Live fish food is a treat for your fish. Some species of fish appreciate chasing live food like worms, insect larvae, water fleas, and brine shrimp. These foods harvested a good source of nutrition.
However, adding these tasty delights to your aquarium poses the risk of introducing disease-carrying bacteria as well. It’s crucial to remove dead specimens and rinse live and fresh foods under clean running water to remove dirt. Always scoop out the uneaten portions as they will eventually die and pollute the water.
* Brine shrimp lives in salt water and cannot survive in fresh water. Thus, they have to be eaten fast, or they will die and contaminate the water.
* Worm category includes bloodworms, tubifex, earthworms, and several others. Worms, especially the tubifex, can carry diseases. Earthworms are great for bigger-sized fish.
Frozen and Freeze-dried Fish Food: Most live fish food is available in frozen or freeze-dried forms. These types of food are more convenient and safer to use than live food – they provide the same nutrients as live specimens and are disease-free.
Fish do not enjoy eating freeze-dried foods as much as live, frozen natural foods. Give them time to get used to them.
aDdiNg fiSh
What you should know when adding fish to your tank?
It’s easy for the beginner to feel bewildered by the kaleidoscope of offerings at any fish shop. At the spur of the moment, it’s pretty hard not to point at the prettiest fish and buy dozens of them for your new tank.
But stop for a moment. Overcrowding your tank could mean the death sentence for your fish.
What Else Could Happen If You Overcrowd Your Fish Tank?
Too many fish translates into oxygen starvation for the entire aquarium community as the fish compete for limited air. They will also produce too much carbon dioxide in the water. Waste such as ammonia and nitrated build up, turning the environment poisonous.
What You Should Do When Adding Fish To Your Tank
Before adding fish to your tank, consider these pointers:
Start with Hardy: Beginners should start out with a few hard specimens. Favorites like guppies and tetras are colorful additions that require little care. And you can buy them cheap. Sucker fish are interesting to look at, and help keep the tank clean at the same time.
Number of Fish: Limit the number of fish, especially if your tank is new, and if the plants, animals, and bacteria have not had time to establish a proper cycle.
Add fish slowly and gradually. Safely bringing your tank’s population up to the maximum can take more than six months.
The rule of thumb is to have 1cm of fish per liter of water. But this doesn’t mean that a 100-liter aquarium can house a hundred small fish. It’ll be just about right for 20 fish about 5cm long each. Also, don’t forget that your fish will grow, so 5cm should be the adult size of the fish.
Tank Size: The best-sized tank holds about 80 to 100 liters (about 75cm x 32cm x 35cm) of water. Try to avoid small tanks, especially those that hold less than 40 liters of water. It’s difficult to keep fish healthy in them.
A tank capacity of between 40 to 100 liters (10 to 26 gallon) is large enough for keeping a variety of different fish.
If you don’t know the volume of your tank, here’s an article on how to measure the volume of your aquarium.
Tank Shape: The shape of the aquarium also makes a big difference to your fish. I have written on this topic in length here, and to sum it up in one sentence: Tanks with narrow surface areas should hold fewer fish as there is less room for oxygen.
Schooling Fish: Many species of fish live in schools. Neon tetras, rainbow fish, and clown barbs, for example, feel happiest living in groups. They not only look great together, they also survive better as that’s how they live in the wild. Keep about eight of each variety in the tank.
Some fish simply don’t get along. They are hunters, or get territorial, eating, biting, chasing or harassing others until they die of stress. Catfish, for example, will eat fish less than half their size.
It’s easy for the beginner to feel bewildered by the kaleidoscope of offerings at any fish shop. At the spur of the moment, it’s pretty hard not to point at the prettiest fish and buy dozens of them for your new tank.
But stop for a moment. Overcrowding your tank could mean the death sentence for your fish.
What Else Could Happen If You Overcrowd Your Fish Tank?
Too many fish translates into oxygen starvation for the entire aquarium community as the fish compete for limited air. They will also produce too much carbon dioxide in the water. Waste such as ammonia and nitrated build up, turning the environment poisonous.
What You Should Do When Adding Fish To Your Tank
Before adding fish to your tank, consider these pointers:
Start with Hardy: Beginners should start out with a few hard specimens. Favorites like guppies and tetras are colorful additions that require little care. And you can buy them cheap. Sucker fish are interesting to look at, and help keep the tank clean at the same time.
Number of Fish: Limit the number of fish, especially if your tank is new, and if the plants, animals, and bacteria have not had time to establish a proper cycle.
Add fish slowly and gradually. Safely bringing your tank’s population up to the maximum can take more than six months.
The rule of thumb is to have 1cm of fish per liter of water. But this doesn’t mean that a 100-liter aquarium can house a hundred small fish. It’ll be just about right for 20 fish about 5cm long each. Also, don’t forget that your fish will grow, so 5cm should be the adult size of the fish.
Tank Size: The best-sized tank holds about 80 to 100 liters (about 75cm x 32cm x 35cm) of water. Try to avoid small tanks, especially those that hold less than 40 liters of water. It’s difficult to keep fish healthy in them.
A tank capacity of between 40 to 100 liters (10 to 26 gallon) is large enough for keeping a variety of different fish.
If you don’t know the volume of your tank, here’s an article on how to measure the volume of your aquarium.
Tank Shape: The shape of the aquarium also makes a big difference to your fish. I have written on this topic in length here, and to sum it up in one sentence: Tanks with narrow surface areas should hold fewer fish as there is less room for oxygen.
Schooling Fish: Many species of fish live in schools. Neon tetras, rainbow fish, and clown barbs, for example, feel happiest living in groups. They not only look great together, they also survive better as that’s how they live in the wild. Keep about eight of each variety in the tank.
Some fish simply don’t get along. They are hunters, or get territorial, eating, biting, chasing or harassing others until they die of stress. Catfish, for example, will eat fish less than half their size.
frEsH watEr dEcOratiOn
How to do it right?
Decorating an aquarium can be fun. There are loads of fun beads, colorful plants, even miniature pagodas if your goldfish are so inclined, but caveat emptor! Remember, whatever you put into your tank will affect its ecosystem and can harm your fish.
Like everything else in your aquarium, it is worth a little time planning beforehand and getting your supplies from pet or fish stores.
Aquatic hobbyists have a wide range of options when it comes to decorating their tanks: a nice piece of hollow driftwood, a conch shell picked up from the beach, or some nice rocks and plants. There are even rainbow-colored pseudo pebbles that release oxygen into the water!
Dos & Don’ts of Freshwater Aquarium Decoration
* Wallpaper: Some stores sell decorative “wallpaper” sheets that fit externally on the glass at the rear of the aquarium. These can help convey a feeling of depth, and block off an unsightly background like a tangle of wires or a boring wall.
* Aquatic Plants: Place big, bushy plants along the back and sides of the tank, then place one or two small ones in the middle as a centerpiece. More details on aquatic plants here.
* Log: A hollow log would be much appreciated refuge for shy or smaller fish fleeing their larger neighbors.
* Glass, Plastic Ceramics: Most items made of plastic, glass, and ceramics are inert, i.e. they don’t release or leach chemical into your water.
* Untreated wood: Like the piece of driftwood you found on the seashore, may be very pretty. But it may leach substances such as tannins that turn the water a yellowish tea color, and can change its pH. If you’re using wood that you’ve found yourself, boil it first to kill any pathogens or dangerous bacteria. Boiling it long enough will also make it sink.
* Seashell: You picked up a lovely shell and thought it would be a great additional to your aquarium decoration? Take a close look, and you may see tiny little inhabitants inside that perhaps should be left alone. Check the insides carefully and rinse the shells thoroughly before adding them to the tank. As a precaution, keep checking pH and buffering levels in your water in the days after adding the shell to check if it leaches carbonates.
Decorating an aquarium can be fun. There are loads of fun beads, colorful plants, even miniature pagodas if your goldfish are so inclined, but caveat emptor! Remember, whatever you put into your tank will affect its ecosystem and can harm your fish.
Like everything else in your aquarium, it is worth a little time planning beforehand and getting your supplies from pet or fish stores.
Aquatic hobbyists have a wide range of options when it comes to decorating their tanks: a nice piece of hollow driftwood, a conch shell picked up from the beach, or some nice rocks and plants. There are even rainbow-colored pseudo pebbles that release oxygen into the water!
Dos & Don’ts of Freshwater Aquarium Decoration
* Wallpaper: Some stores sell decorative “wallpaper” sheets that fit externally on the glass at the rear of the aquarium. These can help convey a feeling of depth, and block off an unsightly background like a tangle of wires or a boring wall.
* Aquatic Plants: Place big, bushy plants along the back and sides of the tank, then place one or two small ones in the middle as a centerpiece. More details on aquatic plants here.
* Log: A hollow log would be much appreciated refuge for shy or smaller fish fleeing their larger neighbors.
* Glass, Plastic Ceramics: Most items made of plastic, glass, and ceramics are inert, i.e. they don’t release or leach chemical into your water.
* Untreated wood: Like the piece of driftwood you found on the seashore, may be very pretty. But it may leach substances such as tannins that turn the water a yellowish tea color, and can change its pH. If you’re using wood that you’ve found yourself, boil it first to kill any pathogens or dangerous bacteria. Boiling it long enough will also make it sink.
* Seashell: You picked up a lovely shell and thought it would be a great additional to your aquarium decoration? Take a close look, and you may see tiny little inhabitants inside that perhaps should be left alone. Check the insides carefully and rinse the shells thoroughly before adding them to the tank. As a precaution, keep checking pH and buffering levels in your water in the days after adding the shell to check if it leaches carbonates.
Oil layEr
There is a layer of oil on my tank’s water surface that seems to have caused the death of my Arowana and sucker-fish as well as made the rest of my fish sick. I suspect the oil comes from the new water hose that I’ve just bought. How can I find out whether it is the cause of the problem? Besides scooping away the water at the surface to remove the oil, is there another method or a chemical that can be used to solve this problem?
Personally, I have never encountered this type of problem before. To the best of my knowledge, a hose is usually sold clean of any solvents. Whether new or old, a hose should not leak out oil-based solvents.
There is a quick way to find out if your new hose is the cause of your problem. Fill a small pail with water using the hose and put the pail in a brightly-lit place where you can see sunlight hitting the water surface. The presence of oil will be marked by a patch of thin film on the water surface that reflects rainbow hues, or a film with a whitish to yellowish tinge. If that is the case then, somehow, traces of oil are present in your new hose.
Getting Rid of the Oil Layer In the Fish Tank
Getting rid of the oil layer is a tricky business. I do no advocate the use of chemicals to dissolve it. Neither would a surface skimmer solve your problem. This might remove the film of oil from view but some oil would still remain in your tank’s ecosystem. Instead, try this method:
1. Take a piece of newspaper. Cut it to fit three quarters of your tank’s water surface.
2. If you are using powerheads and filtration systems, cut off the power supply and wait for about 20 seconds for the water current to stop.
3. Slowly place the newspaper flat on the water surface. This is the part where experience helps. Do not despair if part of the newspaper gets submerged below the water.
4. Stand at one end of the tank’s width. Hold each corner of the side of the newspaper nearest to you, and slowly pull the newspaper up and towards you. As you pull it up slowly, the newspaper will pull the film of oil together with it as it breaks contact with the water surface. You may have to repeat this procedure a few times before the oil film is completely removed.
Personally, I have never encountered this type of problem before. To the best of my knowledge, a hose is usually sold clean of any solvents. Whether new or old, a hose should not leak out oil-based solvents.
There is a quick way to find out if your new hose is the cause of your problem. Fill a small pail with water using the hose and put the pail in a brightly-lit place where you can see sunlight hitting the water surface. The presence of oil will be marked by a patch of thin film on the water surface that reflects rainbow hues, or a film with a whitish to yellowish tinge. If that is the case then, somehow, traces of oil are present in your new hose.
Getting Rid of the Oil Layer In the Fish Tank
Getting rid of the oil layer is a tricky business. I do no advocate the use of chemicals to dissolve it. Neither would a surface skimmer solve your problem. This might remove the film of oil from view but some oil would still remain in your tank’s ecosystem. Instead, try this method:
1. Take a piece of newspaper. Cut it to fit three quarters of your tank’s water surface.
2. If you are using powerheads and filtration systems, cut off the power supply and wait for about 20 seconds for the water current to stop.
3. Slowly place the newspaper flat on the water surface. This is the part where experience helps. Do not despair if part of the newspaper gets submerged below the water.
4. Stand at one end of the tank’s width. Hold each corner of the side of the newspaper nearest to you, and slowly pull the newspaper up and towards you. As you pull it up slowly, the newspaper will pull the film of oil together with it as it breaks contact with the water surface. You may have to repeat this procedure a few times before the oil film is completely removed.
biGgER taNk
Does a bigger tank promote faster growth in fish compare to the smaller one?
A tank is a home to a fish. There are three-, four- and five-foot tanks sold in aquarium stores. Just like we have three-, four- and five-room apartments or houses available for us to choose from. We aspire to have the best we can afford. The same goes for fish; they too would prefer a larger home.
With a bigger tank, fish will have more space to move around and feel more comfortable. Naturally, they will tend to “exercise” more, thus eat more which in turn grow faster than in a “constraint environment.” It is more important, however, to provide them with clean water (right water chemistry), a stress-free environment, and healthy varied diet. Without these factors, how ever much space your fish has will not do any good let alone grow faster.
Arowana grow quite fast, so it would be good to anticipate their growth and invest in a slightly bigger tank from the start. This way, you need not spend more money upgrading the tank. Of course, you also have to consider the availability of space to accommodate the tank, and your finances.
A tank is a home to a fish. There are three-, four- and five-foot tanks sold in aquarium stores. Just like we have three-, four- and five-room apartments or houses available for us to choose from. We aspire to have the best we can afford. The same goes for fish; they too would prefer a larger home.
With a bigger tank, fish will have more space to move around and feel more comfortable. Naturally, they will tend to “exercise” more, thus eat more which in turn grow faster than in a “constraint environment.” It is more important, however, to provide them with clean water (right water chemistry), a stress-free environment, and healthy varied diet. Without these factors, how ever much space your fish has will not do any good let alone grow faster.
Arowana grow quite fast, so it would be good to anticipate their growth and invest in a slightly bigger tank from the start. This way, you need not spend more money upgrading the tank. Of course, you also have to consider the availability of space to accommodate the tank, and your finances.
aQuariUm taNk
What should you look for in an aquarium tank?
Like fish, your aquarium tank is something that you should choose wisely. It is not something to be bought on a whim. The tank has to be suitable for what you are planning to put in it. Aquarium tanks can be used for several things, decoration, fish, amphibians or corals. All these different things need different tank types and different types of things in the aquarium. Fish are the easier thing to keep whereas corals are a lot harder than the others.
Corals require a marine setup tank, this means saltwater basically. The aquarium tank needs to have intensive hard lights, a saltwater level of around 0.7, this is the optimum level for fish and corals that need saltwater. Corals are like beautiful rocks, they are different colored and also available for this type of set up are anemones. Anemones are like lots of little fingers sitting on a plant that wave around in the water and are absolutely stunning. Saltwater fish can also be incorporated in a coral tank aquarium.
Though amphibians don’t really need a lot of taking care of, but that doesn’t mean you should put them in cheesy aquarium tank. Important thing it to make sure that they have adequate water and surrounding objects that they can associate with their natural habitat. Some amphibians need water baths so that they can bath in them such as turtles and snakes, it is important to make sure that these animals have enough room and space to move around because if they don’t then they may suffer from the effects of disfigurement and growing problems.
Fish are like I said the easiest to keep in an aquarium tank; they need a full tank of water, obviously. They need a filter, heater and proper lighting equipment. There are several different types of fish that can be put in an aquarium and they all need different types of habitats, so do take note that your aquarium tank suits the type of fish that you have purchased.
Any aquarium tank is of course the most essential part of any tank set up. Furthermore aquarium tanks don’t come cheaply (as they are made of reinforced and safety glass in order to stop the glass from breaking when you fill it with water); so all the more you should take serious consideration of what type of animals you intend to rear before you make your investment.
Again I stress, decide what types of animals interest you most first, then the aquarium tank comes second. Otherwise your animals won’t live very long!
Like fish, your aquarium tank is something that you should choose wisely. It is not something to be bought on a whim. The tank has to be suitable for what you are planning to put in it. Aquarium tanks can be used for several things, decoration, fish, amphibians or corals. All these different things need different tank types and different types of things in the aquarium. Fish are the easier thing to keep whereas corals are a lot harder than the others.
Corals require a marine setup tank, this means saltwater basically. The aquarium tank needs to have intensive hard lights, a saltwater level of around 0.7, this is the optimum level for fish and corals that need saltwater. Corals are like beautiful rocks, they are different colored and also available for this type of set up are anemones. Anemones are like lots of little fingers sitting on a plant that wave around in the water and are absolutely stunning. Saltwater fish can also be incorporated in a coral tank aquarium.
Though amphibians don’t really need a lot of taking care of, but that doesn’t mean you should put them in cheesy aquarium tank. Important thing it to make sure that they have adequate water and surrounding objects that they can associate with their natural habitat. Some amphibians need water baths so that they can bath in them such as turtles and snakes, it is important to make sure that these animals have enough room and space to move around because if they don’t then they may suffer from the effects of disfigurement and growing problems.
Fish are like I said the easiest to keep in an aquarium tank; they need a full tank of water, obviously. They need a filter, heater and proper lighting equipment. There are several different types of fish that can be put in an aquarium and they all need different types of habitats, so do take note that your aquarium tank suits the type of fish that you have purchased.
Any aquarium tank is of course the most essential part of any tank set up. Furthermore aquarium tanks don’t come cheaply (as they are made of reinforced and safety glass in order to stop the glass from breaking when you fill it with water); so all the more you should take serious consideration of what type of animals you intend to rear before you make your investment.
Again I stress, decide what types of animals interest you most first, then the aquarium tank comes second. Otherwise your animals won’t live very long!
Saturday, February 14, 2009
yEllOw
Yellow-Tail Arowana is believed to be the cross between the Gold and Green Arowana . Its scales are usually milky-white with yellow colored fins and tails . It is about the same price as the Green Arowana.rEd
Red Arowana is found in Kalimantan and Sumatra of Indonesia. They can be divided into 1st grade red and 2nd grade red. 1st grade red can have different intensity of color ranging from yellow to orange to red to blood-red and chilli-red. The higher intensity red is more desirable and often demand very high price. It is often difficult to diffferentiate 1st grade red from 2nd grade red when the fish is young.Young 1st grade red's tail and anac fin have intense red color and their scales are shiny gold in color with some green at the base. Young 2nd grade red has orange fins and the scales color are no obvious and often whitish silver. When the fish grows, in 1st grade red, the color of the fins remains red, their scales and the gill cover will develop its color. Ther type of color it will developed into depends on which type of 1st grade red you have. On the other hand, the adult 2nd grade red will only have pinkish or orange colored fins, thier scales and gill color will only developed pink or orange color.
platiNuM silVer
The Platinum Arowana is an extremely rare type of fish with virtually no color in its body. This fish is so valuable that an offer for $80,000 was recently turned down! Legend states that this fish is supposed to bring luck to its owner, which is another big reason why it is so unbelievably expensive. This unique fish dines on a diet of insects, shrimp, fish, and frogs. They enjoy warm water of 75-82 degrees Fahrenheit.
Sunday, February 8, 2009
priCe n valUe
Arowana can range in price from a few hundred pounds up to in excess of £250,000. The value of the fish is determined by a number of factors:
1) Colour the definition and contrast of the colour increases the value, the more unusual combination and the more striking the colours the greater the value.
2) Depth of colour, the more of the body that is coloured the greater the value.
3) Dimensions, as always the proportions and size of the fish effect the value.
4) Blemishes, sunburn, marks, cuts, bites etc reduce the price of the fish.
5) Uniqueness, this takes many forms, if it is through deformity but a completely unique event, the price of the fish can be hugely elevated. Missing tail sections or deformed jaws that occur in a visually appealing way can make the fish very valuable to someone seeking something unusual. If the deformation is irregular it can completely devalue the fish.
6) Personality, due to the uniqueness of each fish and how they interact, their personalities and the connection a potential buyer has with the fish can set the value.
7) Age, although this does not directly effect the price, many of the above cannot be determined until the fish is approaching 24 months old. This means that although juvenile fish are significantly cheaper, they are a gamble as to the older fish you are purchasing. To guarantee elements the fish must be much older, by which time a higher price will be set. (Even with super red fish, one can not necessarily say if it will be red or orange if purchased below 12 inches).
1) Colour the definition and contrast of the colour increases the value, the more unusual combination and the more striking the colours the greater the value.
2) Depth of colour, the more of the body that is coloured the greater the value.
3) Dimensions, as always the proportions and size of the fish effect the value.
4) Blemishes, sunburn, marks, cuts, bites etc reduce the price of the fish.
5) Uniqueness, this takes many forms, if it is through deformity but a completely unique event, the price of the fish can be hugely elevated. Missing tail sections or deformed jaws that occur in a visually appealing way can make the fish very valuable to someone seeking something unusual. If the deformation is irregular it can completely devalue the fish.
6) Personality, due to the uniqueness of each fish and how they interact, their personalities and the connection a potential buyer has with the fish can set the value.
7) Age, although this does not directly effect the price, many of the above cannot be determined until the fish is approaching 24 months old. This means that although juvenile fish are significantly cheaper, they are a gamble as to the older fish you are purchasing. To guarantee elements the fish must be much older, by which time a higher price will be set. (Even with super red fish, one can not necessarily say if it will be red or orange if purchased below 12 inches).
aSpectS
Growing to 35 inches in length it is not a fish for the small aquarium, requiring generally as an adult a 5ft x 3ft x 3ft tank as a minimum.
The most notable being:
They have large distinct scales arranged in 5 horizontal rows. The scales themselves contain several bandings colours with the most intense and appealing contrasts fetching the highest prices.Distinct barbells protrude from the lower jaw and the large number of teeth and presence of bone in the mouth lead to the common name Bonytongue.
Long flowing pectoral and pelvic fins add to the graceful impact of the fish, and their powerful motion allows them to jump in excess of 6 feet from the surface of the water.
Cultural Beliefs
The Asian Arowana is considered auspicious by many, as well as being a symbol of wealth and stature. They embody several Feng Sui concepts of the Dragon complemented by Water bringing luck and tranquillity to the owner.The Dragon Fish in Feng SuiThe Fish itself has a number of characteristics that fit within the principals of Feng Sui. The large scales and their colouring of Red or Golden demonstrate the existence of wealth and success. Being such a noble and dominant fish it also presents the character of strength and success which can be reflected on the owner. The large mouth that only collects food from the surface show how the fish can engulf success from above and draw it in for the owner.Water is a place where chi gathers, it is naturally a source of yin energy containing an "auspicious" fish such as an Arowana e balances the yang and helps to dispel any negative energy in the household or office.Also because the fish is so naturally effected by magnetic fields it is in keeping with the feng sui principals also based around the world’s magnetism and polarities.
Myths of Arowana
There are many stories of Arowana succumbing to ailments similar to their owners, and the owner subsequently recovering in record time. This extends to a believe that the fish may save its owner from death by dying itself. Often people who have come in contact with Arowana or the Arowana community hear stories of owners dying and shortly thereafter the fish jumping out the tank, or in a more fortunate of circumstances a miraculous escape from a car accident and on returning home the owner finds an Arowana died at around the same time as the accident.
As unbelievable as it sounds the number of stories and closeness of events does beg the question is there more to this than myth?
The most notable being:
They have large distinct scales arranged in 5 horizontal rows. The scales themselves contain several bandings colours with the most intense and appealing contrasts fetching the highest prices.Distinct barbells protrude from the lower jaw and the large number of teeth and presence of bone in the mouth lead to the common name Bonytongue.
Long flowing pectoral and pelvic fins add to the graceful impact of the fish, and their powerful motion allows them to jump in excess of 6 feet from the surface of the water.
Cultural Beliefs
The Asian Arowana is considered auspicious by many, as well as being a symbol of wealth and stature. They embody several Feng Sui concepts of the Dragon complemented by Water bringing luck and tranquillity to the owner.The Dragon Fish in Feng SuiThe Fish itself has a number of characteristics that fit within the principals of Feng Sui. The large scales and their colouring of Red or Golden demonstrate the existence of wealth and success. Being such a noble and dominant fish it also presents the character of strength and success which can be reflected on the owner. The large mouth that only collects food from the surface show how the fish can engulf success from above and draw it in for the owner.Water is a place where chi gathers, it is naturally a source of yin energy containing an "auspicious" fish such as an Arowana e balances the yang and helps to dispel any negative energy in the household or office.Also because the fish is so naturally effected by magnetic fields it is in keeping with the feng sui principals also based around the world’s magnetism and polarities.
Myths of Arowana
There are many stories of Arowana succumbing to ailments similar to their owners, and the owner subsequently recovering in record time. This extends to a believe that the fish may save its owner from death by dying itself. Often people who have come in contact with Arowana or the Arowana community hear stories of owners dying and shortly thereafter the fish jumping out the tank, or in a more fortunate of circumstances a miraculous escape from a car accident and on returning home the owner finds an Arowana died at around the same time as the accident.
As unbelievable as it sounds the number of stories and closeness of events does beg the question is there more to this than myth?
caRe n oWneRship
Often there is concern from potential Arowana owners about the investment involved and the risks associated with it. The reality of the situation is that Arowana (with a life expectancy of 20+ years) can be a long term aquatic companion with one of the lowest requirements of care of any tropical species. Well filtered, soft and slightly acidic water at roughly 28C is preferable, however, Arowana are known in captivity to be kept in a wide variety of conditions ranging from a PH4 to PH8 and KH2 to KH20. This will be reflected by the specific fish and its tolerance to the environment but Arowana themselves are very hardy.
Ideal conditions are based around sensitivity to PH and we always recommend owners keep their tanks as close to PH6.4 to PH6.8 as possible.
Arowana are exceedingly tolerant of poor conditions, they are not however tolerant at all to changing conditions. The greatest risk your Arowana will face is a change in environment such as changing the filter, or overfeeding a tank that has too weak a filter. This can cause a spike in ammonia, nitrates or nitrites. It is not the conditions themselves that can be harmful but the change which may result in losing your fish.
A clear example of this is a tank that has been poorly kept for several months. The owner decides to perform a 60% water change with the purest, most perfectly conditioned and correct water. As a result the Arowana becomes unable to swim correctly, starts to rotate in the water and over a week dies. The issue is not the condition of the water but the unexpected change. This same change could be achieved with 10% water changes per week, or even a reduction of the water level and a drip fed increase over several weeks.
Ideal conditions are based around sensitivity to PH and we always recommend owners keep their tanks as close to PH6.4 to PH6.8 as possible.
Arowana are exceedingly tolerant of poor conditions, they are not however tolerant at all to changing conditions. The greatest risk your Arowana will face is a change in environment such as changing the filter, or overfeeding a tank that has too weak a filter. This can cause a spike in ammonia, nitrates or nitrites. It is not the conditions themselves that can be harmful but the change which may result in losing your fish.
A clear example of this is a tank that has been poorly kept for several months. The owner decides to perform a 60% water change with the purest, most perfectly conditioned and correct water. As a result the Arowana becomes unable to swim correctly, starts to rotate in the water and over a week dies. The issue is not the condition of the water but the unexpected change. This same change could be achieved with 10% water changes per week, or even a reduction of the water level and a drip fed increase over several weeks.
iNtegRity
Can I keep Arowana with other fish?
Arowana are also highly territorial but establish good relationships with other fish such as Barbs, Parrot Fish and Stingrays. If you desire to keep a number then as a general rule they can only be kept with other Arowana if in groups of 6 or above. As a testament to their individual personalities it is often possible to keep smaller groups of Arowana together if they are individually more sociable.
Always keep watch over your tank and fish to understand the relationship that are forming. Also remember the Arowana’s primary territory is within 16 inches of the surface of the water. If you have fish that regularly swim in this zone they are prime targets for Arowana to pick on. If your tank is not deeper than 16 inches you may find keeping any other fish will be a problem.
Arowana are also highly territorial but establish good relationships with other fish such as Barbs, Parrot Fish and Stingrays. If you desire to keep a number then as a general rule they can only be kept with other Arowana if in groups of 6 or above. As a testament to their individual personalities it is often possible to keep smaller groups of Arowana together if they are individually more sociable.
Always keep watch over your tank and fish to understand the relationship that are forming. Also remember the Arowana’s primary territory is within 16 inches of the surface of the water. If you have fish that regularly swim in this zone they are prime targets for Arowana to pick on. If your tank is not deeper than 16 inches you may find keeping any other fish will be a problem.
dRop eYe
I have heard about Droop Eye, is caused by food falling to the bottom of the tank?
Droop Eye is NOT caused by Arowana looking down or feeding off the bottom of the tank!
The scientific cause of Droop Eye is a fatty deposit build up behind the eyes of the fish, this is caused by over exposure to light, high stress levels, poor diet or any combination of these. To avoid droop eye, make sure you keep the fish in good condition, calm and balanced nutrition. Some fish are genetically more susceptible than others.
Droop Eye is NOT caused by Arowana looking down or feeding off the bottom of the tank!
The scientific cause of Droop Eye is a fatty deposit build up behind the eyes of the fish, this is caused by over exposure to light, high stress levels, poor diet or any combination of these. To avoid droop eye, make sure you keep the fish in good condition, calm and balanced nutrition. Some fish are genetically more susceptible than others.
fEediNg pRoceSs
Arowana prefer live food or at the very least floating food. They will not generally eat from the bottom of the tank. To this end keeping your arowana with a suitable bottom feeder may be a good idea to prevent the buildup of detritus in the tank.
Appropriate foods can range from:
Mealworms, crickets, grasshoppers, locus, garden worms, fly, small frogs, small fish, shrimps, beef heart, etc.
The food your arowana will like is very personal to the fish, so try lots of different things and see how they respond.
Some food help to promote colour in your fish. Any food that contains ceratanoids will help develop red and gold colouring in your fish. However, it is recommended to always maintain a varied diet in your fish.
You can also feed live food on material high in ceratanoids, i.e feed carrots or shrimp to mealworms and then the mealworms to the Arowana.
Feeding patterns effect both the size and colour of your Arowana. Overfeeding can make the fish grow faster but can adversely affect both the colour and the long term health of the fish. Since the size, colour and health is very important do not regularly overfeed any Arowana.
For small fish feeding once or twice a day until they lose interest is enough. From six to 12 inches, once per day is enough. Beyond 12 inches you can consider once every two days, or even less.
High protein foods are also often low in nutrients. Food such as Mealworms are similar to crisps for humans. They taste great but do not have high nutritional value, they provide ideal variety but are a poor stable food.
The best food is fresh fish from your local fish market cut into cubes. You may have to starve the fish for up to several weeks in order to train them to eat food that is not live. If you feed live fish then make sure they are properly quarantined and disinfected before feeding them to your Arowana. Other fish are generally more susceptible to parasites which can in turn damage or kill your Arowana.
Appropriate foods can range from:
Mealworms, crickets, grasshoppers, locus, garden worms, fly, small frogs, small fish, shrimps, beef heart, etc.
The food your arowana will like is very personal to the fish, so try lots of different things and see how they respond.
Some food help to promote colour in your fish. Any food that contains ceratanoids will help develop red and gold colouring in your fish. However, it is recommended to always maintain a varied diet in your fish.
You can also feed live food on material high in ceratanoids, i.e feed carrots or shrimp to mealworms and then the mealworms to the Arowana.
Feeding patterns effect both the size and colour of your Arowana. Overfeeding can make the fish grow faster but can adversely affect both the colour and the long term health of the fish. Since the size, colour and health is very important do not regularly overfeed any Arowana.
For small fish feeding once or twice a day until they lose interest is enough. From six to 12 inches, once per day is enough. Beyond 12 inches you can consider once every two days, or even less.
High protein foods are also often low in nutrients. Food such as Mealworms are similar to crisps for humans. They taste great but do not have high nutritional value, they provide ideal variety but are a poor stable food.
The best food is fresh fish from your local fish market cut into cubes. You may have to starve the fish for up to several weeks in order to train them to eat food that is not live. If you feed live fish then make sure they are properly quarantined and disinfected before feeding them to your Arowana. Other fish are generally more susceptible to parasites which can in turn damage or kill your Arowana.
gEnetic rEseaRch
Quian Hu is working with the Temasek Life Sciences Laboratory of Singapore to perform the first genetic research on Arowana and their breeding habits. This has huge potential for our understanding of one of the most ancient species of tropical fish and also how we produce them commercially.
Mr Alex Chang is the primary research fellow working on the project and I had the pleasure of discussing his most recent findings with him relating to breeding.
Now with the ability to sex fish using DNA they are for the first time able to track and understand the breeding process that occurs with Arowana. Incredibly Arowana are both monogamous and promiscuous, some fish will partner for life whereas others will form lasting relationships but with four females or four males. Interesting it is also not always the same male who parents the eggs that collects them in their mouth for development. They have found often an unrelated male will collect the eggs and brood with them. There is no genetic reason for this and currently it is thought it may be a preparation for future mating or to impress females.
They are also attempting to explain the reason for Arowana breeding only being able to occur within a few degrees of the equator. It is believed that magnetic variations strongly effect the breeding of Arowana, as outside of this area they have no interest, but the same fish transported directly to the equator will breed rapidly.
This research marks a monumental occasion for Arowana breeding, allowing for specific strains or characteristics to be bred into the fish and also giving us the opportunity to learn some amazing facts about a species we truly know little about.
Mr Alex Chang is the primary research fellow working on the project and I had the pleasure of discussing his most recent findings with him relating to breeding.
Now with the ability to sex fish using DNA they are for the first time able to track and understand the breeding process that occurs with Arowana. Incredibly Arowana are both monogamous and promiscuous, some fish will partner for life whereas others will form lasting relationships but with four females or four males. Interesting it is also not always the same male who parents the eggs that collects them in their mouth for development. They have found often an unrelated male will collect the eggs and brood with them. There is no genetic reason for this and currently it is thought it may be a preparation for future mating or to impress females.
They are also attempting to explain the reason for Arowana breeding only being able to occur within a few degrees of the equator. It is believed that magnetic variations strongly effect the breeding of Arowana, as outside of this area they have no interest, but the same fish transported directly to the equator will breed rapidly.
This research marks a monumental occasion for Arowana breeding, allowing for specific strains or characteristics to be bred into the fish and also giving us the opportunity to learn some amazing facts about a species we truly know little about.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
brEediNg pRoceSs
Breeding Arowana is an ongoing process there are no specific seasons when the fish breed, however, there are times of year when breeding occurs more regularly.
There is no external way to sex an Arowana, until recently all breeding was done by educated/experienced guess work placing 30 selected fish into a pond and leaving them to their own devices. Characteristically these ponds are approximately 15m by 20m with a mud or silt floor.Over time, females will lay eggs on the floor of the pond and a male will pass over fertilising them. Following the fertilisation the eggs are collected into the mouth of the male, where they will develop for 4-6 weeks before being released as young fry into the pond.
The pond manager will maintain a constant vigil to identify the presence of "Mouth Brooding" male fish, and when he feels there is enough justification, will call a harvest.
The fish are driven in a large net to the edge of the pond where they can be caught and identified more easily.The breeder will then identify mouth brooding males and collect them in a net.
A quick peek into the mouth will allow him to identify if the fry are old enough to be released. they are the male must be scanned to identify the microchip number of the parent, the fry are released into a net and collected.The vetinary authorities watch this process and count the exact number of fry that are harvested. This is then checked against the number of microchips required when the fish reach 4 inches.The fry are placed into special tanks which simulate the water flowing in the mouth of the adult. Here they are left to develop until large enough to swim freely.Once the fish reach 4 inches they are ready to be microchipped, and only once microchipped are they able to be transported.
There is no external way to sex an Arowana, until recently all breeding was done by educated/experienced guess work placing 30 selected fish into a pond and leaving them to their own devices. Characteristically these ponds are approximately 15m by 20m with a mud or silt floor.Over time, females will lay eggs on the floor of the pond and a male will pass over fertilising them. Following the fertilisation the eggs are collected into the mouth of the male, where they will develop for 4-6 weeks before being released as young fry into the pond.
The pond manager will maintain a constant vigil to identify the presence of "Mouth Brooding" male fish, and when he feels there is enough justification, will call a harvest.
The fish are driven in a large net to the edge of the pond where they can be caught and identified more easily.The breeder will then identify mouth brooding males and collect them in a net.
A quick peek into the mouth will allow him to identify if the fry are old enough to be released. they are the male must be scanned to identify the microchip number of the parent, the fry are released into a net and collected.The vetinary authorities watch this process and count the exact number of fry that are harvested. This is then checked against the number of microchips required when the fish reach 4 inches.The fry are placed into special tanks which simulate the water flowing in the mouth of the adult. Here they are left to develop until large enough to swim freely.Once the fish reach 4 inches they are ready to be microchipped, and only once microchipped are they able to be transported.
micrOcHippiNg
Firstly the fish are sedated.A microchip that has already been assigned by the vetinary authorities to this particular group of fish is sterilised and inserted into a special needle.The chip is carefully injected into the fish (the location varies depending on the breeder) but most commonly either through the Vent into the stomach or behind an upper scale on the side of the fish.The fish is then placed into a recovery tank for the anaesthetic to wear off. The whole process taking under a minute.
Friday, January 9, 2009
pLatiNum
An Osteoglossum species from South America and owned by Singapore-based Dragon fish breeder Aro Dynasty the platinum arowana is reputed to be the most expensive aquarium fish in the, and with a reported price tag of £200,000, it might just be.Unlike most Osteoglossum, this mutant is virtually white with virtually no other colours present, not even on the dorsal surface. This is because of a rare condition called leucism (reduced pigmentation).cRoSsback gOldeN
The Golden Arowana is the most popular and expensive ornamental fish native to Malaysia. The best quality is the crossed-back full scale Arowana is the Malaysian Golden Arowana. This variety only occurs in Bukit Merah Lake in the state of Perak, Malaysia. In its natural habitat breeding season normally occurs from August to October every year. During the season village folk from around the lake will try to collect the valuable fry at night.There are two varieties of arowana that commonly inhabit Malaysian water bodies; a golden variety and a green variety. The green variety is more common and less expensive compared to the golden variety, which sells at a premium. The crossed-back Golden Arowana commonly inhabits the Kerian River and its tributaries in Perak. In its natural habitat the fish prefer slightly acidic clean water and unpolluted natural surroundings, especially shallow and fast flowing rivers with overhanging vegetation on the river bank.Due the high price of the golden variety the Freshwater Fisheries Research Station (FFRC) started with a few individuals of the wild catch for brood stock. The wild fish were acquired from traditional fish collectors at Bukit Merah Lake in 1990. In 1996 FFRC was fortunate to successfully breed the Malaysian Golden Arowana in concrete tanks on the first attempt.
Saturday, January 3, 2009
grEeN
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Green arowanas are dark green on the back, silvery or golden green on its sides, and silvery or whitish on its ventral surface, with dark greenish or bluish patches visible through the lateral scales. In mature fish, the top of the eye and the head behind the eye are bright emerald.Is considered the lowest grade of the Asian Arowana . It scales are silvery-white to white color with slightly green fins .It is also the cheapest of the Asian Arowana and not a protected species . But it still have a quantity of a fine Arowana .
Green Arowana is found in Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand. The scales are not bright and often translucent with some grey or green color. The color is even throughout the body (no dark-top). The tail can be grey, purplish-grey or green in color.This fish is generally shorter then its Asian relatives. This is the most affordable Asian arowana.
rEd tAiL gOldeN
The red-tailed golden is found in northern Sumatra, Indonesia. Red-tailed golden arowana. Although the scales are golden, the anal and caudal fins are reddish-brown.Mature red-tailed golden arowanas have brilliant metallic gold lateral scales, gill covers, bellies, and pectoral and pelvic fin membranes, although the back is dark. In juveniles the areas destined to develop golden colour start out metallic silver. The anal fin and the bottom portion of the caudal fin are light brown to dark red.The scales are copper-gold in color with some purplish shine. The back of the fish are dark in color, ranging grey, brown to black. The tail color have 1/3 to 2/3 divisions, the top 1/3 are dark in color and the bottom 2/3 have purplish-red to brownish-red color. The dorsal(back) fin and the anac(near the anus) fin color follow the 1/3 and 2/3 of the tail color respectively.
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